Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2023 has just started and Schiaparelli is on everyone’s lips. Life-like animal heads as brooches, meticulous tailoring, top list supermodels Naomi Campbell, Shalom Harlow and Irina Shayk on the runway, and impressive makeup on celebrities have made Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS 23 the most viral and discussed on social media.
The collection face everything: criticism for glamorising garments that involve life-like animal heads, idolisation for the unconventional approach in tailoring and even mockery for those ideas. Inspired by Dante Alighieri’s 1308 epic poem the INFERNO, the most well known work of The Divine Comedy trilogy the collection parallels elements of the meditations stirred up by the poem. “The story is, at its core, an allegory of doubt” Rosberry posted on the brand’s website. In the poem, Dante “realizes just how little he actually knows”. Looking at those sumptuous fabrics, gilt detailing and surreally sculptural jackets you can easily understand that his craftsmanship is one of transcendence, just like Dante’s poem.
There are 32 meticulously tailored gowns and suits but unusually without any headwear and necklaces this season. The oversized tuxedo ensemble with a gigantic drop-shoulder silhouette is cinched tightly at the waist, the mile-long sleeves dropping down to the knees as if affected by gravity, creating a truly surreal look. This was worn with an ecru organic cotton shirt and a navy blue wool tie with the hand-painted oblique ecru stripes which also cover the whole the suit. Slicked back hair, neutral makeup and the absence of accessories on the neck is a recurring theme throughout the collection.
Doja Cat was encrusted head-to-toe with Swarovski red crystals. Through a long process which took about five hours to cover her whole face and body, McGrath and her makeup team had created an extraordinary and mystical look which once again highlighted the collection’s devilish theme.
Aside from all the entourages and shocking elements of the show, the fact that Daniel Rosberry has brought the Schiaparelli maison to life with an exceptional collection is not in doubt. And at the end of the day isn’t this the most important thing in fashion?
