Celia Kritharioti’s Haute Couture show, at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines, on January 24, was riddled with African motifs. Pines, grasses and bushes lined the runway to the accompaniment of the drum beats, which gave the impression of being in the middle of the savannah rather than in Paris. Anna Dello Russo and Sophia Hadjipanteli lit up the lineup of the first row.
The Greek designer is famous for melding cutting-edge design and house heritage handmade work. In the Haute Couture collection were 69 pieces, from masterfully hand-embroidered cocktail dresses, gowns, jackets and mini dresses to the breathtaking wedding dress with features and crystal-encrusted tulle that closed the show. Each piece was a concoction of such sumptuous African and European style, but it was the second look that stole the spotlight: the suspenders, briefs and bra covering only the bare minimum, embroidered with small stones in turquoise shades. Long dangling beads from the neck to the solar plexus were swinging shockingly. Another notable outfit was the evocative tight-fitting floor-length turquoise dress with contrast red feathery trims on decolletage, paired with gigantic earrings and headwear that emulated the jewellery of lavish Papuan women.
The unification of the African style and Greek artistry in Celia Kritharioti’s Haute Couture SS23 is astonishing and inspiring but it might not be for everyone. It’s likely to split opinion, but isn’t that what Haute Couture is for? Like any art form, some people will appreciate what others dismiss.
