“I design in order to make people feel something”
says Daniel Roseberry
Schiaparelli’s comeback after the pandemic and long silence around the brand was always going to be impressive, moderately surreal and an answer to all the questions a new generation were asking about what Schiaparelli is. The heritage brand, which was established 85 years ago and has influenced our style, by creating zippers in colours that matched the materials, fuchsia, platform shoes and so on, got applause from those waiting hungrily for new ideas and fashion in the hall of the Petit Palais in Paris in January 2022.
Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of the brand has named the collection “An Age of Discipline ” in his notes for Schiaparelli Haute Couture SS22. It’s obvious he’s not going to break Elsa Schiaparelli’s surreal approach but has started to modernise the style and make us fall in love with it again from the first sign. Roseberry has been working for Schiaparelly since 2019 and during this short time, two years of which were during the pandemic, he dressed celebrities and famous people for The Red Carpet, Cannes Film Festival and Grammy Award, making a big statement for the brand in the fashion world.
The collection includes 23 fittings. “All we needed, I realized, was black, white, and gold—yet it wasn’t so much a return to basics as it was a move towards the elemental.” noted Roseberry on their website. The collection includes faultless lines, the ideal deep black colour on dresses, and jackets with gold elements on them which reflect the light and enhance the innovative shape of garments. The collection has cosmic motifs, a black moulded leather corset with canonical gold orbits around breasts paired with black mini skirt and tights and high heel shoes with long gold nails on them. On the model’s head a gold diadema with elements of the sun’s rays around it completes the look. And it’s not just one piece that includes orbital elements, Roseberry has included many hidden and obvious cosmic motives: the gold bag resembling Saturn, a gold and black corset with orbits around the shoulders, and hats with perfect wide brims.
When Elsa Schiapareely was running her business, she dressed the most iconic people in that time, Hollywood actresses Joan Crawford and Mae West, society and bohemian people. Today Lady Gaga, Beyonce, Kim Kardashian and Bella Haddid have been spotted in Schiaparelli’s gowns in different events and the brand has started to gain recognition and popularity among famous people.
Despite the surrealism and futuristic design that the brand is famous for, and Roseberry’s following, the collection includes simple and elegant garments which can be worn by any woman for any occasion, but also extraordinary pieces which a spoiled fashionista could become obsessed with.
